The plan for today was to spend a day in Innsbruck, Austria, and add it to my travel map. I wanted to be back in Zurich that night, so I decided to make a day trip. I had booked my tickets in advance on the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) website at €19,00 each way—a great price considering I paid CHF 16.60 just to get to Sargans for my visit to Vaduz 🔗. As I had seen before when I returned from Milan by train, generally, booking train tickets on SBB was more expensive than booking on Trenitalia / ÖBB / Deutsche Bahn / where possible, even when, the actual train on which you travel is the same.
The weather turned drastically today with snow on the ground, a sharp contrast to yesterday’s sun, but I headed out anyway on the 6:40 AM RailJet.
Someone came by to check my ticket and passport as the frozen Swiss countryside rolled by. We crossed Liechtenstein non-stop into Austria and were soon climbing towards the Arlberg Pass. It was snowing outside and I imagined how nice it must have been in warmer weather, but even now it was a winter wonderland. As we descended towards Innsbruck, we had the Inn River for company on our right all the way until Innsbruck.
Surprisingly, there was no snow on the ground in the city center. I began my walk toward the Wilten Basilica, a stunning Rococo masterpiece with a lavishly decorated interior. Right next door is Wilten Abbey, a Premonstratensian monastery with centuries of history. From this vantage point, I could see the modern Bergisel Ski Jump towering over the trees, a striking contrast of contemporary architecture against the Alpine skyline.
Heading toward the center of town, I passed under the Triumphal Arch, built in 1765 to commemorate both a royal wedding and a royal mourning. I soon reached the Liberation Monument, which honors those who fought for Austrian independence, and St. Anne’s Column, a slender red marble pillar that stands as a symbol of the city’s defense against invaders.
Next was Innsbruck’s most famous icon, the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl). Adorned with 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles, it looked magnificent even under the grey sky. A massive Christmas market filled the square, and despite the damp cold, the festive atmosphere was incredibly welcoming.
I then headed to the riverfront to see the Colourful Houses of Innsbruck, whose bright facades contrasted the water. From there, I walked to the St. Jacob Cathedral (Innsbruck Cathedral), a prominent Baroque landmark, and the Tyrolean State Theatre, which sits elegantly across from the Imperial Palace.
I circled back for another look at the colourful houses as dusk settled in. I spent my final hour wandering through the glowing stalls of the Christmas markets. My return train was at 5:48 PM, and by the time I reached the station, I was ready for the warmth of the carriage.
The ride back was dark, but comfortably warm. I reached Zurich on time and took the tram back to my hotel, exhausted but happy to have seen the heart of the Tyrol.
🚆 ÖBB RailJet