We started our day with a red-eye flight, Air India 848, from Pune to Delhi. We had a short transit at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi, where we were greeted by the iconic “Global Warning” recycled art installation. We cleared immigration and boarded our next flight, Air India 213, to Kathmandu.
After landing at Tribhuvan International Airport, we collected our bags and bought a local SIM card for phone data at one of the kiosks. We were welcomed by the “Welcome to Nepal” sign and traditional Newari artwork. We booked a Toyota HiAce with a driver from Smile Car Rental for the six of us during our stay. I had discussed the itinerary and rates on WhatsApp. We met our driver, Santosh, in the parking lot, loaded our bags, and were off.
Our first stop was the famous Durbar Square in Bhaktapur. We bought our tickets and walked up an incline to reach the main square. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a living museum of medieval Newari architecture, art, and culture.
We visited the National Art Museum and the Golden Gate (Lu Dhowka), a gilded masterpiece that serves as the entrance to the 55-window Palace (Pachpanna Jhyale Durbar) and the Taleju Bell.
We also saw the Vatsala Devi (Durga) Temple and the Narasimha (Narsingha) Temple. The Radhakrishna Temple—also called the Gopinath or Jagannath Temple—and the Siddhi Lakshmi Temple were nearby.
We explored the Naga Pokhari (Serpent Pond), a royal bathing tank located within the palace grounds. The basin is encircled by a stone Naga (snake), with a tall pole in the center topped by a gilded serpent head.
The Harihar Narayan Temple was another impressive structure built in terracotta brick and stone. Constructed in the Shikhara style (resembling a mountain peak), it is more typical of North Indian stone architecture.
Later in the afternoon, we visited the Changu Narayan Temple, the oldest continuously functioning Hindu temple in Nepal. A UNESCO World Heritage Site dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this temple features a two-tiered pagoda with a gilded roof, detailed wood carvings, and stone statues of Vishnu’s avatars.
After a long day, we drove up to Nagarkot. We had booked Hotel Himalayan Villa for the night. Our rooms had direct views of the valley; although the mountains were partially hidden by clouds, the cool and pleasant weather was incredibly refreshing.
We had dinner at the onsite restaurant and ended our first day with a delicious Nepali feast. We sampled traditional momos with a spicy dipping sauce, hearty noodle soup, and various local stir-fried dishes.
🚐 Smile Car Rental
🍽️ Hotel Himalayan Villa
🛏️ Hotel Himalayan Villa